Sunday, August 16, 2015

2013 Pinot Noir Nouvelle Lune, André Rohrer

Mittelbergheim is one of Alsace's finest and most authentic villages. Here it is enough to just stroll along the beautiful streets with houses since the 1500s. But behind the facades several innovative producers are hiding. Many show great interest in so called natural wines. They are Rietch, Rieffel, the newly established and microscopic Catherine Riss and André Rohrer. André has Pinot Noir at a third of his land. From this he makes three cuvées of red wine and a crémant Blanc de Noir. Fun!

2013 Pinot Noir Nouvelle Lune by André Rohrer in Mittelbergheim has inviting and open aromas of black cherry, strawberry, vanilla and liquorice. The taste is full-bodied and very fruity, almost like grape juice, still the fresh acids are in place along with firm tannins that give fine structure. The aftertaste is long and remarkably clean. A natural wine. Price: € 13.20.

2013 Tout Naturellement, Florian Beck-Hartweg

To make a vin naturel, without any sulphur or filtration, the work starts in the vineyard. For example, the biodiversity at all trophic levels needs to be high, above ground as well as in the soil itself. This allows nutrients to be retained and released optimally, provides a natural protection to pests and gives room for a suite of natural yeasts. The vines should have the right vigour and photosynthetic capacity to bring aromatic complexity rather than excess sugar to the grapes. In the cellar you need a knowledgeable, skilled, inventive, curious and dedicated producer such as Florian Beck-Hartweg.

2013 Tout Naturellement by Florian Beck-Hartweg in Dambach-la-Ville is made from Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner. The scent is soft, expressive and inviting with apples, physallis, yellow plum, fresh herbs and a wiff of yeast that contributes to the complexity. The taste is round, rich and vibrant with pronounced fruitiness and fresh but not aggressive acids that come through quite late on the palate. A perfectly balanced wine that is really, really good and versatile! Price: €9.20.