Edelzwicker, Gérard Schueller

Elias Canetti got the Nobel prize in literature for the novel Die Blendung. It comes to my mind after spending a week in Burgundy, tasting several hundreds of the worlds' most prestigeous wines, day after day. Wines where 9 out of 10 fall into pieces after some years, after having been sold at astronomical prizes with promises of a glorious future that never arrives. At the same time you may uncork a 20 year old Alsace or Bordeaux at any quality level, selected with blindfold without any worries of oxidation.

Edelzwicker from Gérard Schueller in Husseren-les-Château has a lively and attractive aroma of flowers, mango, apricots and yellow apples. The taste is good, honest and refreshing with lovely acids, a nice backbone and some length. Price: Next to nothing.

2007 Edelzwicker Sélection du Gourmet, Emile Herzog

Say "Edelzwicker" and many will frown. But although most Edelzwicker are wines that are offered on 1-liter bottles almost for free, it is wrong to generalise. Because one can make Edelzwicker in many ways and with varying level of ambitions. At worst, it is hard-pressed must from  high yield sites on the  Plaine d'Alsace. But better is, if it is done from surplus, high quality must for which the vat intended lacked space, or - as in this case - if it is deliberately made from co-planted grapes, grown in a well-tended vineyard with a reasonable yield.

2007 Edelzwicker Sélection du Gourmet from Emile Herzog Turckhiem is made from Chasselas, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. The scent is fresh and peppery spicy but also contains green apples, apricot and hazelnut. The taste is clean and fresh with moderate body, youthful fruit and a hint of bitterness (from Gewurztraminer)  in the finish. Lovely on the table! Price: € 5.60.