Monday, April 25, 2011

2001 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Osterberg, Louis Sipp

One can argue that none of the Alsace grape varieties, including Riesling, gain as much on ageing as Gewurztraminer. Young and "Great" Gewurztraminer is often dominated by pronounced, almost pungent aromas of roses, bananas, and spices and the taste may be dominated by a sugary sweetness. But, over time, the aromas gain complexity and become integrated and interwoven, while the sugar in the taste give way for an elegant minerality and acidity, without losing its' charming fruitiness.

2001 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Osterberg by Louis Sipp in Ribeauvillé has a deep yellow color. The scent is multi-dimensional with grapefruit, mint, cardamom, licorice, honey, yellow apples and strawberries (and much more). The taste is fruity but firm and elegant with a silky sweetness in the finish, which includes a fresh acidity and a minerality bordering to saltiness. To drink now, and over 20 more years. Price: € 19.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

2009 Riesling Andlau, Marc Kreydenweiss

Marc Kreydenweiss, one of the pioneers of organic farming, is a name that is mentioned with great respect. He has land on Andlaus three, brilliant Grands Crus, but may be best known for a less prestigious wine-growing vineyard: Clos Rebberg. After a few years where the wines lost zest due to malo-lactic fermentation, he is now back on top!

2009 Riesling Andlau by Marc Kreydenweiss comes from land adjacent to Grand Cru Wiebelsberg. It has a dark, dense yellow color and an open, fresh scent of anise, herbs, grapefruit and a bit of toast. The taste is medium bodied, fruity and broad-shouldered with apples and grapefruit, nice acidity and a clean, long and grapy taste with a fine structure and balance. A lovely bottle for the table. Price: € 10

Friday, March 25, 2011

2007 Riesling Grand Cru Brand, Zind-Humbrecht


The central, original part of the Grand Cru Brand where Zind-Humbrecht owns land lies in an amphitheater that is oriented due south. The unusually easily weathered granite nourishes the vines and creates an even temperature throughout the day. Therefore, the acids in a Brand are always soft and elegant, never aggressive, while the nose offers ripe fruits and flowers. A Brand can be drunk young but ages splendidly.

2007 Riesling Grand Cru Brand from Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim is brilliant golden yellow. The scent is bright and extrovert and clean as a mountain lake with well-defined notes of honey, candied lemon, lilac, almond and a barely perceptible hint of petroleum. The taste has amazing volume of caressing and fresh fruit, as well as a wonderfully pure acidity which leads to a long finish with fine grip. A miracle of precision!

2008 Riesling Vignoble d'E, André Ostertag


Alsace build his greatness on the pure, natural wines that highlight the grape variety and terroir. Wine complexity is normally based on low yields, a long growing season and careful vinification with élevage sur lie. But gradually,  the use of oak increases. It is primarily Pinot Gris and Auxerrois which can carry  the structure and the flavours that the oak carries with it. Andre Ostertag is famous for bringing up all kinds of wine in oak, but especially for the extremely high quality that characterises all his wines.

2008 Riesling Vignoble d'E from André Ostertag in Epfig is medium yellow with clear green tints. The aroma is forward, more nutty than fruity but young and fresh, with clear hints of toast, gooseberry, lemon meringue, hazelnut and toffee. The taste is medium bodied, very dry, with ripe acids and considerable length. Price: € 15

2007 Pinot Gris Trois Châteaux, Kuentz-Bas


Kuentz-Bas is a renowned firm that until a decade ago was managed by two cousins. With great terroirs on the Grands Crus Eichberg and Pfersigberg they created well balanced and cellar-worthy wines in a dry and versatile style. Kuentz-Bas was a name which brought respect! But then came an anxious time. The owner duo split in disagreement over almost everything, the quality plunged. In 2004 the firm was taken over by J. B. Adam in Ammerschwihr which has introduced Trois Châteaux as organic product line.

2007 Pinot Gris Trois Châteaux from Kuentz-Bas in Husseren-les-Châteaux are beautifully golden. The scent is powerful, with clear hints of fresh mushrooms, honey, smoke and apple pie. The taste is fruity with a rich mid-palate, fresh acidity and superb length. Kuentz-Bas is back in business! Price: €15.

Sunday, January 30, 2011

1971 Riesling Réserve Exceptionnell, Louis Sipp

It is, of course, a generalization to say that Alsace wines are the worlds' most age-worthy wines. Indeed, there are German Rieslings, Sauternes, Champagnes and Chenin Blanc from the Loire that easily improve for 50 years or more. But the uniqueness of Alsace is that quite "simple" - and affordable -  wines can have an almost eternal life, provided that the yields are kept low and the acidity is in place.

1971 Riesling Réserve Exceptionnell by Louis Sipp in Ribeauvillé origins from lieu-dit Steinacker. The color is brilliant and golden.
On the nose, it is compact, with wet wool, lots of citrus, chocolate, nuts and lots of other komponenenter. The taste is absolutely vital, focused and completely dry with stunning acids that highlights layers of fresh fruit and a long, long finish. Incredibly good! Price: € 11 (current vintage).

Friday, January 14, 2011

1998 Riesling Clos Ste Hune, Trimbach


Sometimes the term "Wine of the Week" feels very inadequate. The wine of the year? The wine of a life-time? In any event, it is a precious gift to have the opportunity to drink one of the world's best wines. A wine for which the intellect is not enough, a wine full of emotions.

1998 Riesling Clos Ste Hune from Trimbach in Ribeauvillé is brilliant golden. Elegant aromas of almonds, petroleum and botrytis. Delicate taste with perfect balance, a velvety texture, and  hints arrack. Quite astonishing acids that are unique to Clos Ste Hune. Unusually bold and potent vintage. Superb! € 180.